Fossil Group (FOSL), the maker and retailer of watches and related accessories, jumped 19% in Monday’s trading, more than it’s gained in the past four weeks.
The bullish price surprise comes in the absence of any news stories that could explain yesterday’s big move -- FOSL’s share volume was 2.72 million, three times its 30-day average, while its options volume was 3.4 times the 30-day average. It was enough to give FOSL the sixth-highest standard deviation at 3.66, which means volatility is ramping up. If you’ve made a speculative bet on FOSL, that’s a very good thing.
The last time Fossil reported quarterly results was in mid-May. While mixed, they weren’t terrible, especially since it’s in the middle of a company-wide turnaround. Since reporting its Q1 2026 results, FOSL stock has gained nearly 50%, including 19% yesterday.
Barely out of penny-stock territory, the next target is double digits. It hasn’t seen $10 since April 2022. However, it’s hard to ignore the fact its shares have gained ground in four of the past five trading days, averaging 7.2% per day over this period.
The speculative bet is gaining traction with investors. Fossil reports its Q2 2026 results a week Wednesday after the markets close. Anything other than a total misfire will likely keep its shares moving higher.
I don’t think there’s any question it makes an intriguing speculative bet for aggressive investors. The bigger question is whether you should own FOSL for the long haul.
My experience writing about retail stocks says no. Here’s why.
Fossil Has a History of Disappointing Investors
Fossil initially went public in June 1993, selling 2.76 million shares for $19 million in net proceeds. That’s about $7 a share.
It’s had four 3-for-2 stock splits since: April 1998, August 1999, June 2002, and April 2004. I’m going to assume that an investor who bought two shares in its IPO now owns 10, with 0.125 shares paid in cash from the April 2004 split.
So, the 10 shares today are worth $58.90 based on yesterday’s $5.89 closing price. Based on a $25.64 share price in April 2004, add in $3.21 from the 0.125 shares in cash.
That’s $62.11 from a 1993 investment of $14, an annualized return of 4.62%, 435 basis points less than the SPDR S&P 500 ETF Trust (SPY). Fossil has never paid a dividend, so there is no boost to the total return.
While the company has had periods of success — the most prolonged between 2011 and 2014 — it has spent most of its 33-year history as a public company trading below $20.
It’s possible, given Fossil’s latest turnaround, but not probable, that Fossil will ever trade at or near its April 2012 all-time high of $139.20.
Buying FOSL stock now because “this time it’s different” isn’t a winning investment strategy. History suggests no matter who’s managing the business, it will ultimately disappoint shareholders.
But What About Its India IPO?
Last October, speculation grew that the company was planning on selling as much as 25% of Fossil India Pvt., Fossil’s Indian subsidiary. Even Bloomberg reported on the news.
The news suggested that the company could raise as much as $400 million from selling up to 25% of the Indian subsidiary in an initial public offering. That would value the entire Indian subsidiary at $1.6 billion, 4.6 times Fossil’s market cap.
Who wouldn’t be tempted by betting on this possibility? Its stock jumped 42% on the news to $3.75. It’s traded mostly higher ever since.
According to Fossil’s 2025 10-K, sales from India were $117.6 million, or 8.4% of $1.41 billion overall. So, assuming the $1.6 billion valuation is real, that would value the Indian subsidiary at 13.6 times its sales; Fossil’s current P/S ratio is 0.33x.
So, clearly, despite a far-fetched valuation for its Indian subsidiary, the IPO speculation hasn’t gone away. Further, that’s despite the company saying at the time that it wasn’t exploring an equity raise. Nearly a year later, there is a segment of investors who still believe it could happen.
One piece of news that likely helped Fossil stock was the June 23 announcement that FOSL was added to the Russell 2000 Index at the close of trading on June 26. All ETFs following the index would have added it to their holdings in the days after the announcement.
3 Big Positives for Fossil’s Business
The big negative for Fossil is the lack of top-line revenue growth. It hasn’t increased revenue year-over-year since 2021. Before that, it was 2015, around the end of its stock’s strong four-year run.
CEO Franco Fogliato’s turnaround, which was initiated shortly after his hiring in September 2024, included three pillars: 1) Returning to its core in watches, 2) reducing its overhead and cost structure, and 3) strengthening its balance sheet.
I’ll address the second and third pillars first.
The company cut its SG&A (selling, general and administrative) expenses by $100 million in 2025 alone. In the 12 months ended April 4, its SG&A expenses were $526.8 million, down from $540.1 million at the end of 2025. Its SG&A margin was 52.9%, down 290 basis points since Fogliato took over.
That’s good news.
As for its balance sheet, Fossil finished 2023 with $150 million in 7% Senior Notes maturing on Nov. 30, 2026. It also had $181.2 million in operating lease liabilities. By the end of 2024, the operating lease liabilities were down to $151.0 million due to the closing of stores.
By the end of 2025, as a result of its debt restructuring plan, it cancelled the old $150 million in notes, replacing them with $29.8 million in 7.5% Second-Out Second Lien Secured Senior Notes due in 2029 and $120.2 million in 9.5% First-Out First Lien Secured Senior Notes due in 2029. In addition, it raised $32.5 million in new financing by issuing more 9.5% notes. The downside: the holders of the $32.5 million in notes also got 954,070 shares of FOSL stock.
Ultimately, however, it pushed out its financing concerns by three years.
Lastly, it planned to return to its roots by focusing on its Fossil brand platform, while focusing on its core business of traditional watches. It remains a work in progress.
The Bottom Line on Fossil Group Stock
The company’s turnaround focuses on profitable growth. It’s clearly not there yet, but it intends to meet its turnaround goals in the next three years. Patient investors could be rewarded handsomely.
Higher operating margins and free cash flow generation are two of its long-term objectives.
Currently, its operating margin is 2.8%; between 2011 and 2014, its best years, the operating margin ranged between 16% and 18%. There’s a lot of work to be done here.
As for free cash flow, in the last 12 months ended April 4, it was -$22.5 million. The highest it’s ever been was $339.2 million in 2012, an 11.9% FCF margin. Again, there’s a lot of work to do.
Given its history, I wouldn’t touch Fossil stock, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t. The downside here for a speculative bet is that Fossil’s options volume is minimal, so you’ll likely have to pony up $6 a share or more to get on board.
Good luck.
On the date of publication, Will Ashworth did not have (either directly or indirectly) positions in any of the securities mentioned in this article. All information and data in this article is solely for informational purposes. For more information please view the Barchart Disclosure Policy here.